Breathtaking Iceland by Clare
Part 5: Whale watching and a spot of shopping
It was our last morning in Iceland and there was just time to pack in few more excursions before heading to the airport. I was going on a whale watching trip while Hannah was checking out the whale museum and Aurora exhibition back on dry land.
There are 23 species of whales off the coast of Iceland; some can be seen only for a short time, others stay here much longer. The best time for whale watching is May until August when they are breeding so I knew there was only a very small chance of seeing one of these incredible creatures but I wanted to try out the boat trip and just crossed my fingers that we might get lucky. Húsavík in north Iceland is the best place to go for whale watching but there are also extensive feeding grounds not far offshore from Reykjavik and that is where we were heading.
Around the Old Harbour, there are a number of specially adapted whale watching ships to choose from, all with viewing platforms and heated lounges. It’s the most comfortable and accessible way to visit the feeding grounds (whatever the weather) but if you are looking for a real adventure the best way to travel is on an open deck rib boat. The ribs are much faster than the ships, they are also very manoeuvrable and will get you much closer to any whales that you might find (while still being respectful of their natural behaviour). Some lucky customers have even seen that King of the Ocean, the enormous blue whale, although you are more likely to see humpbacks, minkes, dolphins and porpoises.
I was travelling on one of the large ships so I headed up to the top deck to watch the waters and make the most of the stunning views of the mountains. If it’s a chilly day, you can borrow waterproof thermal oversuits to wear out on deck (included in your ticket price). Once we reached the feeding grounds we scanned the sea around us hoping for a sighting. We saw porpoises but they didn’t get too close to the ship so we weren’t able to watch them for long. Luckily, there was a professional and very knowledgeable guide on board who gave us a fascinating talk about the types of whales that visit these waters and also about Iceland’s whaling history.
These days the locals prefer to ‘meet rather than eat’ whales but you can still buy whale (and puffin) meat in some of the restaurants. Iceland announced a return to hunting fin whales in 2018 (after a break of two years) and minke whales have always been hunted, albeit in limited numbers (17 killed in 2017). There are quotas for both types of whales – fin whale meat is solely for export to the Japanese market so if you see whale meat on a restaurant menu it will be from a minke whale. Whaling is a hugely emotive subject but, if you wish to see an end to the practice, the best thing to do is to avoid any restaurants serving it and to go on a whale watching trip instead. If there’s no demand for the meat then it will no longer be a viable industry.
I really enjoyed going out to sea despite not seeing any whales but my top tip is: if you get even the slightest bit sea sick please don’t take this trip, you’ll be miserable and so will everyone around you. It was an absolutely stunning day with clear blue skies and a calm sea but people were already being poorly before we even left the harbour. As we didn’t see any whales we were offered a free trip another day (which is standard practice) but a third of the passengers looked like they never wanted to set foot on a boat again!
Meanwhile, Hannah was visiting a couple of Reykjavik’s museums. The city is home to numerous museums and galleries so you can find out much more about the history and culture of this fascinating place. If you want something different, why not visit Perlan (home of the rotating restaurant) with its ice cave and Northern Lights planetarium? Or what about the Punk Museum located underground in a renovated public toilet? Here you can learn about Icelandic artists like Bjork and Sigur Ros – you can even try on a leather jacket and channel your inner Sex Pistol.
There’s also Iceland’s Phallological Museum – better known as the Penis Museum – where you can find out more than you’ve ever really wanted to know about this (ahem) outstanding body part. There are over 200 penises on display which range in size from hamster to sperm whale. Luckily Hannah was only visiting the Whale Museum and Aurora Exhibition so I didn’t have to worry she was going to come back with any inappropriate souvenirs for the team back home 😊.
Whales of Iceland consists of 23 amazingly realistic man-made models of the whales found in Icelandic waters. They are all life size as well so you get a real impression of the sheer scale of these incredible creatures. Not as much fun as a whale watching trip, but at least you are guaranteed to see them without getting seasick. Nearby is Aurora Reykjavik with interactive displays about this natural phenomenon and top tips to help you photograph the lights, so it could be worth popping in before you take an aurora trip.
All too soon it was time to head for the airport after our whistle-stop trip. So, just a few last words about shopping for souvenirs. Those incredible sheep with their flowing locks means that Iceland has some beautiful handknits. The density of wool comes from two different fibres – the inner fibres are soft and fine and provide insulation. The outer fibres are long and glossy and repel water to keep you dry. Typically featuring zig-zag and diamond shapes, Icelandic wool sweaters are usually available in shades of grey, brown, heather blue and white but you can also find them in more modern pinks and reds too. The iconic jumpers are widely available for men, women and children and are stunning if rather expensive (around £150). Make sure you buy an authentic handknit rather than a reproduction which won’t have the same properties and it will last for years. Warning: you might find them itchy to wear!
The other souvenir we were keen to buy was Lava Cheese. You know the crispy, crunchy, caramel-coloured bits of cheese that you get around the very edges of a toasted sandwich? Well this is a whole box full of that stuff. Delicious. We couldn’t find it in any of the shops we visited but there was a whole load of it at the airport so we bought enough to keep us going for a few weeks hours. I also took home some soft toys for the children and the compulsory fridge magnet.
We were sad to have to leave so soon and I definitely recommend spending longer than 3 nights to experience as much as possible of what this incredible place has to offer. Reykjavik itself is well worth a longer stay, there’s lots to see and do here but bring plenty of money if you are eating out.
Hannah and I would both love to go hiking here in the summer and try out more of the wildlife watching tours. You can see puffins between the end of April until early September and we can organise a trip to Vestmannaeyjar for you– the largest puffin colony in the world. Or how about a trip round the South coast to see the stunning black sands of the Diamond beach? We ran out of time to see Skogafoss or Svartifoss or any of the other amazing waterfalls or to snowmobile on a glacier or climb inside an ice cave or snorkel at Silfra or …. oh well, I guess we’ll just have to come back another time 😊.
To book your trip to Iceland and to find out more about the adventures that await you just give us a call on 01793 939035 or email sales@arcticdirect.co.uk
